Load Up on Sweet and Savory Pastries at Istanbul Cafe

Ismet Yilmaz fills his new Turkish eatery, Istanbul Cafe & Bakery, with a lot of energy that even if only a few clients occupy tables inside the bare-bones area, it seems active. Conversations erupt throughout the counter, among tables and even at the front door, where acquaintances greet each other in English, Turkish and a smattering of Eastern European languages.

Turkey has long been a culinary crossroads at the brink of Europe and Asia, but right here in Denver, the rarity of Turkish delicacies creates a call for amongst immigrants from different nations with similar ingredients — Bulgaria, Georgia, Bosnia, and Herzegovina, to name some.

Istanbul Cafe & Bakery is tucked into a shopping center at the nook of Leetsdale Avenue and South Monaco Parkway, in a section of east Denver with an enormous populace of Russians and Eastern Europeans. Although the eatery just opened at the beginning of April, Yilmaz says that clients are already lining up for tables on Saturday and Sunday mornings. “For fifteen years, I dream of this,” he provides, pointing to his put up-lunch snack of fistiki baklava (certainly one of the numerous baklava types that he sells) and tea sipped from an hourglass-shaped vessel.

Yilmaz changed into born in Artvin, Turkey, near the Georgian border, but grew up inside the Aegean port town of Izmir. He began his culinary profession operating in resort motels in Turkey earlier than transferring to New York City. Eleven years in the past he came to Denver, retaining the dream of owning his very own business alive till 2017, while he made it a reality by launching his food truck, Turkish Chef on Wheels. “It’s nonetheless the most effective Turkish meals truck in town,” he notes.

That become simply the start, though: He wanted to open a brick-and-mortar area, and with the help of enterprise companions Soner and Marla Celik, he determined this spot and opened Istanbul Cafe.

Many Turkish dishes — kabobs and spit-roasted meats, manti (small meat-crammed dumplings), stuffed grape leaves and flaky pastries, for example — are familiar to enthusiasts of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern meals in preferred. Yilmaz attributes that to the influence of the Ottoman Empire, which ruled for centuries over Turkey, the Balkan Peninsula, the eastern Mediterranean and elements of North Africa. The savory avenue meals that he sells from his meals truck doesn’t stray too a ways from the anticipated (though he does construct his personal red meat-and-lamb döner kebab spits by hand, an unusual exercise right here). But at Istanbul Cafe, the form of breakfast and lunch options delves a great deal deeper into meals seldom visible in Denver.

For starters, there are breakfast platters built the manner that Turkish human beings often start their mornings — with a little of everything. The Annie’s (Mom’s) Plate comes with enough cheeses, veggies, savory pastries and bread (with several spreads), eggs and olives for two people for $20; the $12 Baba’s (Dad’s) Plate comes with a similar however scaled-lower back choice. Small cups of Turkish coffee make a terrific accompaniment if you’d pick something more potent than tea.

Specialty bread includes ACMA, which Yilmaz describes as a move between a bagel and a croissant. The dough is layered and twisted into a circular form, developing a slightly chewy however nevertheless mild crumb while baked. Acma comprises much less butter than croissants, although, so they’re not as flaky or oily. Istanbul Cafe serves them simple, with Nutella or as a breakfast sandwich with egg and sucuk, a sausage with awesome notes of cumin. You can also get grilled breakfast and lunch sandwiches referred to as ghosts, made on sourdough bread.

Similar to ACMA is the limit — some other bagel-fashioned roll, however with a texture more like a tender pretzel and a generous coating of sesame seeds. And pogaca buns resemble little footballs filled with feta cheese.

Layered savory pastries known as such boregi are loaded with cheese and served in rectangular slices; Yilmaz says they may be quality eaten together with your palms. He works with a wholesale bakery to create the baked goods for his keep; the sun boregi come to the cafe uncooked and are baked in-shop for introduced freshness. A 2nd bakery affords 4 styles of Bosnian-style borek, coiled pastries full of ground beef, potato or cheese, and spinach.

For dessert, the cafe offers seven extraordinary pastries, a number of which are variations on baklava, packed with either pistachio (Yilmaz insists on the use of nuts imported from a well-known pistachio-growing vicinity in Turkey) or walnuts. Others consist of kadayif (with layers of shredded dough), fish sarma (deep-green cylinders of pistachio paste) and Soviet (just like baklava, but with a creamy filling). Yilmaz additionally stocks his cafe with canned and bottled Turkish liquids and Marash, an emblem of goat-milk ice cream as recognizable in Turkey as Baskin-Robbins is in the U.S.

The cafe is set up for counter service, so clients order and pay before grabbing a table and looking forward to their food. A pair of Russian girls at one desk may additionally find out fellow Russians at the following and strike up a conversation approximately the foods they leave out. Curious Denver natives pop in for a flavor of something new. And Turkish clients are already greeted as regulars. The town’s Turkish population is small, Yilmaz explains, so he has to rely upon a ramification of customers to construct a solid base.

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